Chasing the Sun in The South Downs, Sussex
Our day began at 4.30 am after just a few hours sleep and well before our first ‘cuppa’. We planned to watch the sunrise at Beachy Head Lighthouse, a granite, 33 m hight (108tf) tower set on a concrete base below the cliffs and surrounded by the English Channel. It is striking in any weather or season, but the thought of the first rays touching its summit inspired us to drive 350 miles south, rise before dawn and wait on the clifftop.
The show began just after 5 am, when the sun rose above the distant hills. Its light gradually turned the clifftops, hills and lighthouse gold before reaching the valleys. The spectacle lasted about an hour, then the mist over the sea lifted, giving way to a hot, sunny day. We looked at each other and knew the early start had been worth it.
There are many beautiful coastal paths, but before setting off again, we put the kettle on - or rather, fired up the Jetboil we use when travelling in Tariq. The grind of coffee beans and the aroma of a fresh brew began our day for a second time. As keen nature lovers, we then walked along the River Cuckmere, where we were lucky enough to see a cormorant wrestling with a freshly caught eel. Nature never disappoints. With no need to rush, we watched swans, ducks and egrets resting peacefully along the banks of the meandering river.
We reached Seven Sisters Beach at low tide, allowing us to venture farther out and admire the white chalk cliffs from below. The seven individually named peaks and valleys stretch from Cuckmere Haven, near Seaford, to Beachy Head. The clifftop route is 3.8 miles (6.2 km) each way, with 148 m of ascent, making it a pleasant two-hour walk or a half-day circular route. The full 13.5-mile (22 km) Seven Sisters coastal walk from Seaford to Eastbourne, however, takes most of the day. National Trust car parks are available at Seven Sisters and Birling Gap; charges apply, but the views are well worth it.
We reached Seaford Beach in the late afternoon and, captivated by the dramatic cliffs, decided to stay for sunset. We imagined the chalk glowing gold, a fresh sea breeze and gulls circling overhead - and the scene unfolded exactly as we had pictured it. Sitting on the clifftop, watching the gulls catch the golden light, became a memory etched in our hearts. We talked about that joyful moment long after returning to the car. Exhausted at last, we curled up together and kissed goodnight.
We woke feeling refreshed - sleeping in Tariq is surprisingly comfortable. Our peaceful camping spot was hard to leave, but more adventures awaited. The South Downs offer a wealth of walking trails and attractions, from viewpoints and parks to memorials, museums and windmills. This time, we crossed farmland to reach the Chattri Memorial, which stands on a hill in Patcham, north of Brighton. It honours the Indian soldiers who served during the First World War, another memorial can be found in Brighton (The Royal Pavilion). We paused there to enjoy the tranquillity and catch our breath before returning to our base. After visiting Oldland Windmill, we basked in the sunshine and enjoyed freshly caught oysters prepared by my own MasterChef, Lucas. What a trip - and a wonderful reminder of how much can be packed into just 48 hours!
